The history of underwear
European underwear history
In the 17th and 18th centuries, women did not have the habit of carrying handbags. You will be surprised to hear that the petticoat acts as a handbag. They sewed pockets on the petticoat under the large long skirt supported by whalebone frames, put their private money in their pockets, and even sewed 2 or 3 pockets on the petticoat, ranging from cosmetics used when going out to when traveling. Carry food and other items are all placed inside. Of course, you have to lift up the long skirt when you take it out, so that you can see the petticoat inside.
American underwear history
In contrast to Europe, Americans, who have a strong and unrestrained impression, prefer loose and comfortable underwear compared to tight-fitting underwear such as bras. The underwear industry in the United States also developed with this loose-fitting underwear as the center. Bikini can be said to be a kind of typical American underwear. However, the consequence of this loose underwear belt is the looseness of the abdomen caused by the increase of subcutaneous fat, the thick and fat waist and the collapse of the body curve of the green pepper-shaped buttocks. In the middle of the 19th century, Mrs. Bruma, who was born in New York, USA, thought about the improvement of women's status and women's clothing, and advocated liberating women from inconvenient long skirts and rigid waist corsets. It can be seen from modern women's clothing that she has written an important page in the history of clothing development. American women put on clothes and underwear that are easy to work, but women in the 19th century began to resent the weak woman image demanded by men. The energy contained in this resentment eventually led to the abolition of corsets.
The earlier term for ancient underwear was "Xieyi". "Indecent" means "light and not solemn", which shows the mentality of the ancients towards underwear. The history of Chinese underwear has a long history. The underwear history clues described below are from the Han Dynasty.
Han: The basis of the "belly holding, heart-clothing, heart-clothing" is the "robes belly". The upper part of the "belly holding" is called the "heart clothing" with "crocheted shoulders" and "crochet" instead of thin straps. The common point of the two is that the back is not exposed. Back piece. Plain woven silk is a commonly used underwear fabric in the Han Dynasty. On it, various silk threads are used to embroider patterns (called color embroidery), and the patterns are mostly "love" as the theme. At that time, plain fabrics were used to make underwear. not much.
Wei Jin: (Sixteen Kingdoms): The difference between "Two Dang Two Dangs" and "Holding abdomen" and "Heart Clothes" is that it has a back piece, which can be used as both a chest and a back. The material is mostly thick and rich in color. The brocade is double-layered and lined with cotton. "Liangdang" was originally the clothing of the nomads in the north, and it was passed down to the Central Plains and belongs to a foreign culture.
Tang Dynasty: Before the Hezi dynasty, the shoulders of underwear were all decorated with straps. In the Tang Dynasty, a kind of strapless underwear appeared, called "Hezi". This is also determined by the shape and characteristics of their outerwear: women in the Tang Dynasty liked to wear "semi-breasted skirts". They tied the skirts high on their chests and then tied a wide belt at the bottom of their chests with both shoulders. The upper chest and back are exposed, and the underwear is covered with transparent tulle. The underwear is faintly visible. Therefore, the underwear fabrics are exquisite and colorful, which is quite similar to the "underwear outer wear" advocated today. In order to match this wearing habit, underwear needs to be strapless. The commonly used fabric for "Myrobalan" is "woven", which is firm, slightly elastic, and feels thick. Tie two straps under your chest when you wear it. "Weaving" ensures that the upper part of the "Myrobalan" can stand upright.
Song Dynasty: After wearing a tube top, "the upper breast can be covered and the belly can be covered under the breast". The whole chest and abdomen are covered, so it is also called "wiping belly." It is tied with buttons or straps. Usually people use cotton products, commonly known as Home-made cloth, silk products used by the nobles and embroidered flowers on it. The single clip has different forms.
Yuan Dynasty: "Hehuan Lapel and Hehuan Lapel" is the main feature of tying the belt from back to front. When wearing, it is fastened with a row of buttons on the chest or tied with ropes. The fabric of the acacia placket is made of brocade. Mostly, the pattern is continuous in four directions.
Ming Dynasty: The shape of "main waist and main waist" is similar to that of a vest. The placket is open, and the two plackets are decorated with three placket belts, the shoulders have a crotch, there is a belt on the crotch, and the waist side is also tied with all the belts. The waist is closed. It can be seen that the women of the Ming Dynasty have been well versed in the way to show their figure.
Qing Dynasty: Dudou In the Qing Dynasty, the "tube chest" was also called "dudou", generally made into a diamond shape. There is a strap on the top, which is put around the neck when worn, and there are two other straps tied behind the waist. The bottom is an inverted triangle, covering the belly button and reaching the lower abdomen. Most of the materials are cotton and silk. The straps used for binding are not limited to ropes. For wealthy houses, gold chains are mostly used, silver chains and copper chains are mostly used for middle-class houses, and red silk and silk are used for Xiaojiabiyu. There are all kinds of exquisite embroidery on the "belly pocket". Red is the common color of "belly".
In the 1920s and 1930s: small vests "little vests" are narrow and narrow, usually with double breasts, and several buttons are placed on the breasts to wrap the chest and waist tightly when worn. The "little vest" further developed and absorbed certain characteristics of the West and became a bra. The main fabric is cotton and silk.
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